2–3.2 g/L in water
Five to eight times the solubility of menthol at 25 °C, which is what makes an alcohol-free aqueous spray possible.
Menthol citrate ester is a mono-ester of L-menthol and citric acid. Esterification turns a volatile, oil-soluble alcohol into an amphiphilic molecule that disperses in water, resists crystallising, and stays in the formula instead of leaving the bottle.
Looking for the development service rather than the data? See Formulation R&D.
L-menthol is a good sensate and a poor ingredient: it volatilises, it barely dissolves in water, and it crystallises out of a formula at low temperature. Reacting one of its hydroxyl groups with citric acid fixes those three problems at once.
Five to eight times the solubility of menthol at 25 °C, which is what makes an alcohol-free aqueous spray possible.
The boiling range moves from 216 °C to 320–350 °C. That is the difference between a five-minute sensation and an eight-hour one.
Lower molecular symmetry and higher steric hindrance break the packing that makes menthol crystallise out of a formula on a cold shelf.
Physicochemical values are from in-house characterisation of the supplied grade. Methods and raw data are included in the technical dossier.
The free acid suits oil-phase and emulsion work. The sodium salt is what makes a clear aqueous spray or a shampoo possible without a solubiliser.
| Property | Free acid | Sodium salt, 10% solution | Sodium salt, powder |
|---|---|---|---|
| Appearance | Pale yellow to amber oil | Slightly hazy mobile liquid | White powder |
| Odour | Characteristic menthol | ||
| pH | 3–4 (2% dilution) | 8–9 (neat) | 9–10 (1% dilution) |
| Best suited to | Emulsions, balms, oil gels, patches | Clear sprays, toners, shampoos | Powder systems, concentrates, dry blends |
| Handling note | Add to the oil phase before emulsification | Add cold, after the thickener | Pre-dissolve in water or glycol |
Menthol acts on cold receptors and then evaporates. The ester does that, and also interacts with microbial membranes — not by poisoning a single target, but by three physical routes that are difficult for a microorganism to mutate around.
The menthyl ring partitions into the phospholipid bilayer while the citrate head stays at the interface. Membrane integrity and permeability break down, and intracellular ions leak out.
Unreacted carboxyl groups bind Ca2+, Mg2+ and Fe3+, cofactors for respiratory-chain and nucleic-acid enzymes. Enzyme activity falls without any direct binding to the enzyme.
Residual acidity pulls the local microenvironment to pH 5.0–5.5, away from the 7.2–7.6 optimum of many bacteria, and destabilises the outer membrane of Gram-negatives.
The fungal route: in fungi, the ester is proposed to interfere with the lanosterol 14α-demethylase step of ergosterol synthesis — consistent with the MIC data below.
Contact time decides more than concentration in rinse-off formats. The data below separates the two, because a shampoo touches the scalp for one to three minutes.
| Contact time | Inhibition |
|---|---|
| 1 minute | 50.60% |
| 3 minutes | 89.66% |
| Concentration | mg/mL | Inhibition |
|---|---|---|
| 1.5% | 15 | 90.59% |
| 2.0% | 20 | 95.29% |
| 2.5% | 25 | 97.65% |
Both tables reproduce data disclosed in CN 121731277 A. Plates, controls and the ketoconazole comparator are in the dossier.
| Organism | Inhibition |
|---|---|
| Staphylococcus aureus Gram-positive | >99.99% |
| Escherichia coli Gram-negative | >99.99% |
| Candida albicans Yeast | >99.99% |
Ketoconazole 10 µg/mL used as positive control.
An eight-hour mean temperature drop on cooling patches, comparing the ester against L-menthol and a synthetic cooling agent at two use levels.
At the low use level all three ingredients look similar. Push to 0.5% and the two incumbents lose between 0.6 and 0.8 °C of mean performance, while the ester holds its level.
That difference is a formulation consequence, not a sensory opinion: menthol and the synthetic coolant reach a solubility ceiling and start to bloom or volatilise out of the patch matrix, so extra dose stops becoming extra cooling.
Guidance from our development work, adjusted with you on your own base.
| Parameter | Recommendation | Reason |
|---|---|---|
| Rinse-off systems | 1.0–3.0% w/w | Compensates for the short contact window in shampoo and body wash |
| Leave-on systems | 0.3–1.5% w/w | Continuing exposure means less material is needed |
| Contact window | 1–3 minutes | Where the antimicrobial effect is concentrated; design the claim around it |
| Compatible actives | Niacinamide, panthenol, PCA-zinc, glycerin, cationic polymers | Tested together in reference formulas |
| Stability observed | 4 °C, 25 °C and 40 °C for 4 weeks | No clouding, precipitation or odour change in the reference shampoo and gel |
The chemistry was developed in academic laboratories and is published. We manufacture the material and run the formulation work.
Ownership and licensing terms for the patent application are stated in writing in the technical dossier.

Image note: laboratory visuals are illustrative renderings.
Both endpoints have been run by an accredited third-party laboratory. The full reports — protocol, raw observations and conclusion — are released to qualified buyers on request, for review by your own toxicologist.
A single-dose oral study with a 14-day observation period. Report on file with the laboratory's own conclusion.
A single-exposure inhalation study on the same observation schedule. Report on file with the laboratory's own conclusion.
Three categories decide your timeline and your budget. This is where each one sits.
Quoted at cost, with the laboratory's price passed through unchanged.
We supply the ingredient inputs and the records behind them.
This map is updated per project. Anything in column 02 can be moved into column 01 with a quotation and a date — ask for both before you plan the launch.
Four documents a formulator or a reviewer will ask for, and where each one comes from.
Specification, a certificate of analysis against that specification for the batch you receive, and the analytical methods behind both.
Time-kill and MIC data generated in vitro, with plates, controls and the positive comparator — ready for a structure–activity discussion with your technical team.
Acute oral and acute inhalation reports from an accredited third-party laboratory, released on request for the grade and the market you are working in.
Listing and naming status confirmed in writing per destination, alongside the tests your submission needs and the laboratory quotation for them.
In-vitro results support formulation decisions and structure–activity work; label claims are built on the testing your market requires.
Grade, dose, base, fragrance, pack and fill size — and the eighteen formats already on the bench.
Open the customisation pageThe four mechanisms behind the dose-response curve, including the solubility ceiling and receptor desensitisation.
Read the noteThe EU ban, the three reformulation routes, and what an in-vitro Malassezia dataset supports.
Read the briefTell us the grade, the application and the market, and we will send what exists for it.